The mist made my hair dewy and we needed warm tops as we joined the other pilgrims tramping across the Portomarin bridge, leaving the 89.5km stone marker behind. The dew glistened on miraculously designed spiderwebs, an architect’s inspiration. At first we walked in silence, drinking in the morning, but as the sun came out we started the usual “Buen Camino” greetings as we overtook and were overtaken by strangers and new friends from yesterday. The first refreshment break was a gathering of the clans, as there were few options and we congregated round the same bar. Then onward and upward, with great views of countryside, an ancient wayside cross, and close range delights of hedgerow flowers and farm animals, including a beautiful, friendly palomino pony, who appreciated the extra grass I gave him. As this is our longest and steepest day, we treated ourselves to two mini lunches! We staggered into our lodging and got down to the daily routine of clothes washing.