We awoke to the tune of cathedral bells and sunshine. While the “new” cathedral was commenced in 1000AD, replacing the old version, and the Wolvesey Castle, home of Bishop Henry Le Bois was only a couple of hundred years younger, the pedestrian mall was thumpin’, with buskers and shoppers having coffee after returning from the farmers’ market laden with veggies. With cousin Trish as guide, we drove to the Mayfly pub inthe riverside at the village of Letchford. After a yummy lunch, David and I left Trish and headed along the South Downs Way, where the ripening wheat caught the sunlight. A letterbox remained from Queen Victoria’s days and a friendly dog watched from a stone wall above us.